When it comes to opening a new restaurant or entertainment spot, liquor can be the necessary ingredient for success. But as some in Kalamazoo restaurateurs have learned getting a liquor license to boost a business or start a new venture can involve more hurdles and more money than anyone bargains for.

“Its a matter of keeping your ear to the ground (and) keeping in contact with various people in the industry,” former nightclub and restaurant owner Wayne Deering said of obtaining a license.

With a state-mandated limit of one license per 1,500 people, areas around Kalamazoo are either at or exceeding their liquor license limit, which means the only way to obtain a license is to buy one from someone wiling to sell.

Deering, who is the former part-owner of C.W. Michael’s Food Cellar and the Club Soda night spot, works as a broker of commercial properties, real estate and businesses. He specializes in brokering liquor licenses. “I periodically get lists and track the licenses as to where they are and their availability,” he said of liquor licenses. “There’s some footwork involved.”

There is an exception, however, for businesses looking to open or expand in depressed downtown areas in the state of Michigan. In late 1996, a new state law made 50 new licenses available to downtown areas. Applicants have to show that more than half of their income comes from on-premise food sales and that their business would seat at least 25 people and be open at least 50 hours per week. They also have to show that they are unable to find an existing license for sale or that purchasing one would not be economically feasible.

As of October 5, the state had approved 21 of the 50 available licenses, and 32 applicants had been filed.

Francois Moyet, a native of France and the owner of Francois’ Seafood and Steak House in downtown Kalamazoo, is considering the idea of opening a second restaurant downtown and is vying for one of the special downtown licenses. Each costs $600 in state fees, a bargain compared to the cost of buying an existing, traditional “Class C” liquor license -anywhere from $30,000 to $60,000 or more.

A Class C license allows for the sale of beer, wine and spirits for on-premise consumption. It is what most taverns and restaurants have.

The process of getting one, however, has been, “how shall I say, a pain in the neck,” Moyet said. He said he expects the application process, which goes through the city commission before going to the state, to take at least six months, if all goes well. And there is no guarantee that it will.

“Here you are coming with a project that will be beneficial for the city,” he said, “and there is nothing done to make things happen fast enough.”
Downtown areas, including Kalamazoo’s, are each eligible for only two of the special licenses. The licenses are intended to spur economic development. In Kalamazoo’s case, one of those has already been granted to Food Dance Cafe, which recently opened for dinner and now offers wine and beer to its patrons.

Moyet, therefore, is competing with other potential downtown proprietors for one license. His efforts are worthwhile - despite the questionable odds - because of the huge difference in price between the special license and a traditional license.

Julie Stanley, one of the owners of Food Dance Cafe, said that while she is grateful for receiving one of the $600 licenses, it did not come without some struggle.
“It was months of major red tape,” she said. “A million times, we heard different things. “You must constantly drive them nuts, and we finally found somebody in Lansing to help us. We just found somebody who was sympathetic to our cause.”

Stanley said she is not sure how the Michigan Liquor Control Commission decides who gets one of the coveted special licenses. Nor could Sharon Martin, secretary to the MLCC, explain the decision-making process. “Every commissioner, I imagine, looks at a file differently,” Martin said. “As far as criteria, it’s hard to say.”

An unscientific survey of restaurant owners and others involved in the local liquor license scene placed the going rate for an existing license at anywhere from $30,000 to upwards to $60,000. Prices vary widely within the state and have jumped and slumped dramatically in the Kalamazoo area over the past 15 years.

Detective Frank Whitaker of the Kalamazoo Department of Public Safety investigates liquor license applicants. When he began doing liqour-related work in 1983, open market prices for Class C licenses ranged from $70,000 to $80,000, he said. In the early 1990s, they dropped as low $18,000, and more recently they have surged again, he said. The basic laws of supply and demand apply, he said.

Part of Whitaker’s jobs is to make sure anyone who receives a license does not have criminal record and does not owe back taxes to the city.

Applicants must file forms with the state and the city, and then the police also inspect the property.

“There is really a lot of paperwork involved in a transfer,” Whitaker said.

The MLCC has a list of liquor licenses in escrow that it updates monthly and sells for $65, Martin said.

“Normally, that’s where people start,” she said, “and they try to contact these people and see if they’re interested in selling.”

She added, however, that some of the licenses listed as escrowed and out of use may already be in the process of being transferred or sold. In fact, several of the 11 on a list provided by the MLCC in early October were already tied up in sales, said Deering and others interviewed.

“As we speak, there are very few available, but each license has kind of its own story,” Deering said. “It might have real estate connected with it, or it might have some other property,” he said. “Sometimes you have someone looking for a license and they have a specific project and would like to move it there, but they’re not at their desired location.”

Jamie Kavanaugh said he has been in pursuit of a liquor license for more than two years. He is the husband of Kim Kavanaugh, who owns Cosmo’s Cucina, a restaurant in the Vine neighborhood.

Recently the Kavanaughs entered a sales agreement on a license they hope will allow them to open a neighborhood bar beneath their restaurant.

Of nine letters Jamie Kavanaugh said he wrote to holders of escrowed licenses (their addresses were included on an MLCC list), six were returned by the U.S. Postal Service unopened; the intended recipients were no longer at those addresses.

The search was dead end, Kavanaugh said, until he hired a broker.

“The most difficult part was obtaining accurate information,” he said.

“By the time the state puts out the list, either people are unwilling to sell it, they’ve already sold it, or the addresses on the list don’t lead you anywhere.”

Kavanaugh suggested that a checklist be created so that license seekers can find out where to go, who to call, and what is needed to comply with the law. “But no such vehicle exists,” he said.

Downtown developers also eye the liquor license market, seeking out available licenses as economic development tools. Andrew Miller, director of downtown development Authority, said his organization is constantly on the lookout for available licenses within the county that could be transferred downtown.

The DDS signed a purchase agreement on a license for $50,000 for the arts complex that is moving into the former home of Jacobson’s downtown.

Then the DDS turned around and sold it for $25,000 - a good deal compared to most - as an incentive to fill the space with quality restaurants. Part of the agreement stipulates that if the license is ever sold again, it must stay in the downtown development district, Miller said. The DDS could also buy it back for $25,000 if the restaurant fails.

“There’s a huge shortage,” Miller said. “ The demand outstrips the supply.”

Restaurant owner Moyet has his own solution, which he concedes is unlikely to be adopted by the state.

“First, I would (make) the market way more liberal,” he said. “You want a liquor license? You go to the LCC , give your drivers’ license, and then they check on you,” he said.

“That should take no more than a week if the system were efficient. It sounds like a big deal, but really, it’s not.”


Le Navarin A Taste for Authenticity
Croque-en-bouche – Nov. 1993 – “Le Navarin: le gout de l’authentique”

In the eleventh Arrondissement in Paris, close to La Place de la Nation, two young associates run a sympathetic restaurant well-known now for offering Poitou lamb.
Francois Moyet grew up in Charentes and does not hide his pride while getting exclusive congratulations for meat bought in Vienne and whose safe origin he guarantees. His associate, Jean Pierre Reynaud, form Sisteron, enjoys cooking that meat and carefully prepares in his kitchen. Moreover they provide excellent fish dishes - born in Provence and Charentes made them also dedicated to sea food. And last but not least, there is excellent beef from Limousin guaranteed for certified origin.
Connoisseurs do not think twice about ordering their meals and booking tables by phone to make sure they can have a good dinner. Though that might sound surprising, yet Navarin Lute (stewed in a closed vessel) which is the house specialty, requires two hours and a half to cook! Fortunately, traditional dishes are cooked faster.
Because of today’s fashion for business extension, the chic and gourmet Navarin has just opened a smaller annex named “La Rotisserie du Navarin”, where I had been said to be able to purchase roasted and grilled meat. That made my mouth water because I started dreaming of spits and kebabs. Unfortunately, the roasting-shop was not there, on Jean-Pierre Thimbaud Street; it was still only a project and as a result, I had to contend myself with a meal, although good but somewhat common and served in an amusing atmosphere. Indeed, I was sitting in an ancient dairy-shop redecorated as a pseudo country inn but looking more like a Parisian Pizzeria. In this restaurant, meals are served for F135.00 or F78.00, and there is even a lunch time meal for F58.00. I would personally recommend people Le Navarin as it is, also without a roasting-shop annexed but with meals for F125.00, F168.00 and F215.00 and a special carte with a variety of lamb meat for F90.00 up to F130.00
A nice carte for wines. The servers are young smiling and efficient, and work in a small and comfortable room on the wide Philippe Auguste Avenue people form Poitou like so much. Indeed, Philipe Auguste linked Poitou county, and Poitiers city in particular, to the French kingdom after Homeric battles he supported in 1165, 1180 and 1553, first against Richard Coeur de Lion, and then Jean Sans Terre.
Concerning the recipe for lamb Navarino, what link might it have with the battle of 1827 named the same in English, French and Russian navies won over the Turks in Ionian Sea? What link? I ask you. Thank you for replying to the newspaper office if you have the answer.


La Rotisserie du Navarin
Le Figaroscope - 16-22th Sept. 1992 –

Le Navarin has just opened a roasting-shop annex on Republique Avenue, keeping a devotion to lamb cooking safe. In order to catch and keep the fidelity of customers in that neighborhood well-known for gourmand site (Astier, Fernand...), the tenants gave priority to a revolutionary F150.00 meal including Kir Royal and wine. Lentil salad a la Dijonnaise, lamb spits or roasted young cock, vanilla nougat... Meat is carefully selected and proves to be top quality (lamb, Salers beef...), although it cannot be contemplated spitting for the moment.


Kalamazoo Area is Special of the Day For the Restaurant Industry
by Ben Jones, Enterprise, April 1999

You hear it frequently, usually from those who eat out only a handful of times a year: There aren’t enough good places to eat in Kalamazoo.
Surprisingly, Francois Moyet owner of Francois’ Seafood & Steak House, 116 Portage Road agrees wholeheartedly.
But, unlike the grousers, who imagine that they would dine out regularly and with cosmopolitan flair if only there were sufficient dinning establishments worthy of their patronage, Moyet doesn’t just sit at home and complain. He just plans to open a second restaurant downtown soon. And he has taken an active role in the newly formed Downtown Kalamazoo Merchant Association, a group of 70 merchants who are working on projects to promote the downtown.
Not that things have exactly been moribund. For 1998, business at Francois’ increased 58 percent from the year before. So far this year, business is up 59 percent. Should things continue at this rate, next year Francois’ would be looking at a Ruthian 60, making Moyet the Mark McGwire of area restaurateurs.
But success has made Moyet neither complacent (“I want to keep growing and growing and booming,” he says) nor protective of his turf.. On the contrary, he wants more competition-the closer, the better.\
“More restaurants will attract even more people,” he says. “I’m willing to have another 20 restaurants just next to me, and things will happen, absolutely.”
Fearless words, but consider this: Before moving to Kalamazoo five years ago with his wife, a Kalamazoo native, Moyet owned and operated three successful restaurants in Paris, where the concentration of fine eateries my be higher than anywhere on earth. But Moyet doesn’t dream of turning Kalamazoo into a small, midwestern version of Paris. He’ll be satisfied with challenging that cultural mecca of Michigan - Ann Arbor.
“My dream here is to have downtown Kalamazoo become a second Ann Arbor, like a downtown Ann Arbor,” he says. “We have potential we have exactly the same economic and cultural possibilities. It’s just a matter of making things happen.”
Moyet concedes that Kalamazoo lacks Ann Arbor’s population base. But he says a more important factor is visionary leaders. Downtown Ann Arbor now has about 15 restaurants, he says, because in the 1980s a smart marketing group called Venture Inc. took a risk and with an all-out effort to successfully locate restaurants throughout their downtown property holdings.
“And they did it,” Moyet says. “And they attract(ed) other restaurateurs, because it’s like bees to the honey. If thy smell the honey, more bees are coming.”
Moyet’s goals may not be as farfetched as they sound: A restaurant industry trade publication recently identified the Kalamazoo-Battle Creek area as one of the top growth areas in the nation for new restaurants. In its October 1998 issue, Restaurant Business magazine, based in New York, published its annual Restaurant Growth Index, which ranked the Kalamazoo-Calhoun-Van Buren counties Metropolitan Statistical Area (MSA) 15th out of 321 U.S. markets.
The index, drawing on statistics like per capita sales and eating place sales, measures the relationship between eating-out propensity and restaurant supply. The Kalamazoo-Battle Creek MSA’s high ranking essentially means there aren’t enough restaurants to meet the demand that exists. Chain operations have begun to act on the favorable demographics; over the past couple of years a Chili’s, a T.G.I.Friday’s, and Outback Steakhouse and a second Applebee’s have opened, among other franchises.
Like Moyet, Terry Hagen, owner and manager of Bravo! Restaurant and Cafe, 5402 Portage Road, welcomes the influx of new competitors for the fining dinero, although he notes that his restaurant relies on a different customer base than the chains do.
“The more restaurants you have, the better business (is),” Hagen says. “I think competition is great, because the national chains have great advertising packages that really get people into the mode of going out to eat. And that’s what you need-people getting into the habit to go out more often. The marketing budgets at places like the Friday’s and the Olive Gardens of the world generate a lot of interest.”
When Bravo opened, it tried some broad-based advertising, but the people who came in thought Bravo was a Mexican restaurant instead of an Italian one, Hagen says, so “it was kind of wasted money.” Now Bravo has carved a niche as fine dining for the symphony crowd that reads Encore magazine and Business Insight.
The restaurant caters to adventuresome gourmands with theme nights three times a year, including a chef’s all-star dinner in February. This July, it will host Bastille Night, with a French-cuisine menu, for which the chefs are currently perfecting the recipes.
And in October, out of all the gin joints in all the towns in the world, Bravo will out on Casablanca Night, a dinner package that includes a screening of the Bogart-Bergman classic followed by a foray into Moroccan fare. Expect to see one or two fezzes at the table.
But outside of a small, devoted group of “foodies” that likes to experiment with palate, Hagen says the Kalamazoo area tends to be a conservative market: both in spending habits and in sampling exotic fare.
Nevertheless, Bravo’s business is up by 12 percent this year, despite the clientele having been depleted by the transfer of Pharmacia-Upjohn executives to New Jersey and of First of America bankers to Cleveland. The restaurant has seen steady growth throughout its 12-year existence, Hagen says, but the past couple of years sales have increased dramatically, which is attributes to the healthy economy.
“I know form other restaurateurs I’ve talked t o that business is strong,” he says. “On a Friday or Saturday night, you go to any restaurant, even the chain restaurants, and they’re on an hour wait for tables.”
Roger Yoder, general manager of Applebee’s Neighborhood Grill & Bar, 5330 W. Main in Oshtemo, attests to that fact.
“I can’t give exact numbers, but we are definitely sales from the previous year substantially,” he says.
Kim Kavanaugh, owner of Cosmo’s Cucina, 804 W. Vine, says that besides giving customers more disposable income, the area’s economic boom has benefited restaurants by leaving customers with less free time: “I think people are working longer hours, and their schedules are such that they don’t have time to cook every night,” she says.
Another side effect of economic expansion has been a tight labor market, and the restaurateurs acknowledge that it’s tough to maintain a consistently high quality of workers. But all have succeeded in attracting and retaining good help, using various strategies.
Because Bravo enjoyed such a successful year last year, in January the restaurant started a 401(k) program for all full-time employees in which it contributed almost 10 percent of their 1998 salary to a 401(k) fund. They can collect on the fund if they stay with the restaurant for five years. Bravo also pays its kitchen crew’s membership dues and training cost for certification with the American Culinary Federation for Southwest Michigan.
“It’s a tough market out here with employees,” Hagen explains. “I think to be competitive we can’t just think of ourselves as a restaurant business. We’re a business which just happens to to be a restaurant.”
Yoder agrees, saying that the employee shortage “is a real toughie-that’s probably neat the top of the list with just about every honest restaurateur there is. In the three years I’ve been here, it gets more and more challenging all the time to find good people, keep good people and hire the right people.”
His difficulties are confined to the kitchen, though; he’s able to choose the cream of the crop for the front house-servers, bartenders and hosts.
“We’re never going to get into the big ‘NOW HIRING’ signs out front, because we don’t think it’s appropriate,” Yoder says, “but our corporate offices just rolled out a whole new package regarding hiring, because it has gotten tight at a lot of Applebee’s.”
One element is table tents that, beside listing drink specials and desert menus, subtly prompt diners who are looking for a fun part-time job to their server for an application. As low-key as the invitations are, they’re still a step Applebee’s was reluctant to take. The firm did so because getting high-quality kitchen workers has proven so difficult.
One way Applebee’s managers attract good employees is by creating an upbeat atmosphere. Indeed. most applicants tell Yoder they applied because they came in to eat and it seemed a fun place to work. The restaurant runs contests with its servers and each shift kicks off with a 10-minute meeting where managers psych up the servers to go out there and serve one for the Gipper.
“It’s kind of like the pre-game talk a coach would give to his team before they go into the final game,” Yoder says.
“Our hiring is 100 percent personality based.” Yoder says. “If you’ve got that fun, bubbly outgoing personality, I don’t care if you’ve ever served a day in your life, because I can teach you how to be a server. I can’t teach you how to be positive and upbeat.”
Applebee’s applications-part of the new hiring package-reflect that approach: They are splashed with color instead of being dreary old black-and-white printed forms.
At Francois’, Moyet says he gets five or six applicants a day, because young people pass the word that it’s a good place to work. He says he listens to their suggestions on possible improvements and invests them with responsibility.
One area of exasperation for many restaurant owners is the myriad of regulations they must satisfy to get a liquor license. Kavanaugh is in the midst of the Byzantine process, having been approved by the Kalamazoo City Commission last month after getting permission from a nearby school and a small Hispanic neighborhood church. The application still has to go to the state liquor board.
“This is our third try,” she says of efforts in dealing with local and state authorities. “ We got discouraged twice before and just kind of gave up. A lot of people are very, very helpful - and some are not.”
To be granted a license, the restaurant must brink itself up to the Americans with Disabilities Act standards, so it is expanding into the ground floor. The other option - to install wheelchair-accessible bathrooms and an elevator upstairs - would have cut its number of tables from 15 to eight.
Liquor liability laws have changed to make the establishment serving drinks less responsible than in the 1970s or ‘80s, she says, but owners still must be vigilant in how many drinks they serve to customers.
Like Kavanaugh, Moyet has a times been frustrated over licensing. He hopes to acquire a liquor license for a second restaurant in the next six months. The state limits the number of licenses to one for each 1,500 persons who live in a township, he says, and they’re all sold out for Kalamazoo and Portage. About the only way to get one is to buy an existing license from someone who no longer needs it.
“Unfortunately Michigan has a strong political board for a license - they simply don’t do anything to release some more”, he says. “We know that more restaurant industry awakes the depressed downtown, so I would say for another 10 liquor licenses, downtown Kalamazoo would be wonderful.”
However, an increase in the number of licenses “is just not going to happen until Lansing decides to let it go more - and that is not going to happen, either,” he says.
Of course, there are no such limitations on smoking, which means each restaurant must decide its own policy. Cosmo’s started the trend toward non-smoking when it decided it would rather switch than fight the fumes. Shortly after Kavanaugh and a partner bought the upstairs eatery in November 1992, they converted from having a small non-smoking section, to be entirely non-smoking, as some West Coast restaurants were starting to do.
“(Our space) is so small, if you had one or two smokers, you might as well not have a non-smoking section,” she explains.
Bravo eliminated smoking about two years ago.
“That was a pretty gutsy move,” Hagen says. “We had a lot of really good customers who smoked who didn’t appreciate it much - they felt like they were being kicked out.”
The bartenders were also up in arms, worried that their tips would dwindle. But restaurant sales have risen, and the wait for tables has decreased. Now, when it’s busy, people will go ahead and eat at the bar or in the cafe, since those areas are smoke-free. Consequently the bartenders are making more tips than ever.
Yoder says Applebee’s corporate offices have discussed going smoke-fee, “but that’s kind of a scary, risky think to do” for a restaurant that caters to a broad market segment. Instead, the restaurant has well-defined smoking and non-smoking areas established by the building’s layout, and a good air-filter system to trap the smoke.
“I’ve been in lots of restaurants where, the minute you walk in the door, it reeks of smoke,” Yoder says. “When you walk in this restaurant, never do you get that smell.”
One restaurant that, in the tradition of liberte, egalite and the fraternite of smokers, upholds the right to light one up is Francois’. Perhaps unsurprisingly for someone who comes from France, where people smoke Gitanes - unfiltered cigarette so strong they make Camels seem like Virginia Slims - Moyet does provide a dining room for smokers, which is separated from two other rooms for non-smokers. Some of his customers are refugees from Bravo, he says.
“I come from the land of the human right, and I think one basic human right is to decide if you want to smoke,” Moyet says. “I’m not here to tell them, ‘You cannot smoke in my restaurant.’ I’m selling pleasure, and how frustrating for a customer if I tell him, ‘No, you can’t smoke here.’”
Whereas the restaurant industry, by large, has been edging away from allowing smoking, exceptions have gone retro by becoming cigar bars and resurrecting other indulgences of yesteryear. Francois’ is one area example: Two years ago Moyet started a martini menu, and, he says, “we were cigar friendly in this bar way before the cigar started to be big in town.” Last summer, he tore out a window to open a French patio, allowing cigar smokers a place to puff contentedly as they contemplate the pub patrons across the street at Olde Peninsula.
Because the restaurant is not in Chicago or New York, Moyet has tried to “Americanize,” as he says, his French cuisine. Since opening in February 1997, he has come up with a new idea to appeal to a market segment about every three months, and, like Bravo’s Hagen, he offers wine tastings and cooking classes. By working 15-hour days for the first two years, he has put his personal imprint on the restaurant, he says, so that now Francois’ has become the place to go and has to turn people away on weekends.
Thus Francois’ image is inseparable from its owner. But restaurants that derive their theme artificially from a corporate concept, such as Hard Rock Cafe, are losing ground to the small independents, Moyet says. Last year, for the first time in a decade, more independent restaurants opened than chains, by 5.2 percent, he says.
“Planet Hollywood and these big chains are losing customers,” Moyet says. “The theme is strong, but nothing makes (customers) come back, because they’re going to eat a burger everywhere else, and once you see a Rambo and Schwarzenegger picture, well, big deal.
Hagen also sees problems for high concept theme restaurants, a hot trend on the coasts and in vacation resort destinations like Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. He notes that Copperfield’s a coming concept restaurant where waiters will perform magic tricks, may not he able to pull a rabbit out of its hat by actually managing to open. Backed by the magician David Copperfield and planned for Times Square in New York, the venture is a year behind schedule and $20 million over budget.
Such exorbitant costs would prohibit any such high-concept venture from coming to Kalamazoo, where lunch is over by 2 p.m. and dinner by 9, says Hagen, as opposed to a larger metropolis, where 9 p.m. “people are just starting to blast off.”
One of the more outrageous new theme restaurants is a Crash Cafe on the East Coast, which screens old disaster flicks like “The Towering Inferno” and has a plane crashed through its ceiling with the propeller still spinning. Kavanaugh and her husband often visit a similar-type place in Chicago called Crooked Spoke - a biker-themed restaurant with parts and paraphernalia on the walls and with motorcycles crashed through the wall.
“It’s almost scary, but they have great food,” she says. “It’s not in a real great part of town, but neither are a lot of the little restaurants that are very popular.”
She thinks theme-inspired restaurants may eventually hit Kalamazoo. The industry is losing small restaurants owners, she says, and generic family dining is losing ground to places that build in an entertainment factor, she says, such as Peter Piper Pizza that recently opened on South Westnedge, featuring beer for adults and a Playland with crawl tubes, slipper slides and video games for children.
“(A restaurant) is not just a place to go eat anymore,” she says, “it’s a place to go and be entertained.”
Applebee’s restaurants strive for an American theme with a decor that includes sports and movie memorabilia, antiques and local history portrayed through photos and artifacts, Yoder says.
The decor lends a feeling of a vanished America, but traces of our roots are being uncovered in downtowns across the country, says Moyet, who last summer went on a cross-country swing that took him to Austin, Phoenix, San Diego, Santa Barbara, Seattle, Chicago, Detroit and points in between. Kalamazoo, whose historic Globe Casket Building is being restored, is right in step.
“The big trend is, people are coming back in (to) the historic downtowns all over the country - it’s everywhere,” Moyet says. “Ten years ago, nobody wanted to have a restaurant in a warehouse. Now they want that more than anything else, to go to this old building with hardwood floor, brick walls, this old antique ceiling, and to have the excitement of the city back in business.”
So if area restaurateurs so seek to carve out a niche or define themselves with a theme, it would seem that they might be better off avoiding costly extravagant gestures like a jetliner crashed through the dining room and concentrate on more indigenous touches that reflect the character of the owner and the place.
As Moyet says, “You can’t really run a restaurant if you don’t put your heart inside.”

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